Chantilly - The Chateau, the creme, and the lace

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Today’s adventure was an exploration of a small town north of Paris called Chantilly. (This is pronounced shan-tee-ye.) This day trip was chosen because there is a pretty chateau and a great collection of art work that is not allowed to be circulated or loaned out. We took the metro to the railroad station Gare du Nord and bought tickets for the 11:37 am fast train on the Grande Lignes bigger trains. We rode the train on the top level for a great view of the countryside and the entire trip only took about 30 minutes.


We took a city bus from the train station to the Cathedral Notre-Dame de Senlis (the bus driver told us to get off here), took a peak inside, and walked towards the Chateau. We walked past a huge building which we later found out were the grandest of all stables. There was a worn footpath across the field to the Chateau. The Chateau sits on a large water moat and is just beautiful. It was a hunting lodge, so the statues around the front gates and walls are of hunting dogs and game. The prices for the various options are listed on the front gate (French and English) so we selected the museum, chateau, library and park.

We decided to eat before we toured so we searched for a restaurant. The yummy smells in the air took us to a more formal one, which was full with a bus group, so we asked about other options. There was a little hamlet “Le Hameau” with three little rustic buildings. This was a rural “play area” for the royalty (and was the model for the hameau at Versailles). The staff person who told us how to get to the restaurant said that it would take 5 minutes to get there and 20 minutes to get back, then he put his arms to indicate a full stomach, and laughed. It was pretty funny (and later we found it to be very true).

The path felt long because we were getting hungry, but it is a nice walk through the formal gardens and then through the rural garden area and in to the Hameau. We easily found the restaurant and it was packed with a wait of about 15 minutes. No other options, so we stayed here, and we are ohhhh so glad that we did. We had our meal and topped it off with desert with Chantilly cream. I have never tasted whipped cream that is so thick and silky. There were a LOT of moaning noises at the table (watch the video for Tina’s first bite).

We walked, stuffed from our wonderful lunch, back to the Chateau for more exploration. The museum collection is incredible. The heir who left the Chateau as a public place had the stipulation that the art remain as he had it displayed. It FILLS the walls. “Chantilly Lace” was also on display (what fun!). We decided to walk the 2 km back to the train station and followed the wooden signs “Gare” along a nice path that took us behind the race track and directly to the train station. We validated our tickets for the 6:12 PM train and rested while we waited. We stopped home for a little freshen up, then left for a marvelous dinner at Le Tir-Bouchon (food discussed in a separate post).

This map will give you an idea of the layout of Chantilly. A public bus took us from the train station to the chateau. This route isn't marked. The return hike is marked in red. Double click to enlarge, then "back arrow" to return to the blog.

Train station Gare du Nord

Train station at Chantilly

Cathedral Notre-Dame de Senlis in Chantilly

Huge horse stables on Domaine de Chantilly

Chateau surrounded by water in a moat

The first video is taken in the front of the Chantilly Chateau on an absolutely beautiful spring day in France.  They practiced the song while we were traveling. ;)

Another view. Each time I took a step, I took another picture.
It was so pretty.

Entrance to the Chateau.
The ticket pricing options are posted left of the gate and
the ticket office is in the little building to the left.

The rural walkway to the restaurant "Le Hameau"

Little creek ran through the area and the blue flowers
filled the open spaces. Spring is in the air!

Potatoes au gratin with nutmeg in the sauce and
a salad.

Bread with ham and cheese, and a side salad.

Spiced bread with Chantilly creme

Raspberries with Chantilly creme

Strawberries with Chantilly creme

We took a lunch break.  The food was good and we saved room for desert...Chantilly cream. Anything with Chantilly Cream. How was it? Well, Tina had the spiced cake and Chantilly cream and let's watch her response to the first bite...

We walked back through formal gardens

Walls lined with the art collection

Painted ceilings, of course.
Makes me rethink my Arizona "popcorn" ceilings.

Chantilly lace

Chantilly plates

Chantilly gold and silver railing

Inlaid wood in the Chapel walls

Stained glass. Take a closer look at the activity and event.
Ahhhh!!!

 I was taking a "serious" video in the Chapel.  Listen for the entrance of the "squeak".  This is the best way to keep track of the "easy to loose" traveling companion.  Sara!!!!!

Look!  We were following the hiker sign.
Gare is Train Station and Hippodrome is the race track.

Beautiful wooded area...as far as the eye can see.

Hippodrome Race Track

Over half way there.

We safefly made it to the train station and headed to Paris. Au revoir!

LOGISTICS AND PRICES

Metro: 1.70 euro per person each way (book of 10 tickets for 12 euro)

Trains: Round trip train ticket from Paris to Chantilly 17.50 euro per person. Take the Creil line, Chantilly won’t be listed on the large train schedule board. The track is listed about 10 minutes before departure.

Bus: There is a shuttle bus to the Chateau that is free and it runs about four times a day. We took a city bus and asked the driver if he stopped by the Chateau. He said yes, and did not charge us although the charge is listed in a guide book as 1.90 e. Dropped us off within easy walking distance.

Chateau ticket: 13.00 euro

Lunch at Hameau: Salad with four cheeses 14, tartine 15, Potato gratin and salad 10, Strawberries and Chantilly crème 9.5, Raspberries and Chantilly crème 10.5, Spiced bread with Chantilly creme 7.5. Glass of wine 4

Hiker’s Path to Gare: Exit through the main gates and cross the turning area. Walk up hill to the large traffic circle. Straight across the circle is the entrance to the dirt path to the train station. Walk around the edge of the traffic circle until you see the wooden sign “Gare” and follow the direction. Remind yourself (and mumble quietly) along the way that 2.0 km is NOT far and that if you had exercised and walked before you came on the trip, you would be ready to walk this path with ease and grace. Out loud, make glowing remarks about the beautiful landscape and how fortunate you were to have made the decision to walk through the woods and marvel when you see the front side of the race track. Be amazed that you are actually following a path marked with a hiking symbol. Think about that huge scoop of Chantilly crème and briefly calculate how this walk is burning ALL of those calories.---alternate plan: call for a 9 euro cab…wimp.

Again, we blended in.