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Dinner at the Château: Coq au Vin, Conversation, and a Very French Evening

  Dinner at the Château: Coq au Vin, Conversation, and a Very French Evening Dinner tonight felt exactly like the sort of evening I had imagined when I pictured staying in a French château. We gathered around the long dining table, dressed in its magnificent deep-red and gold cloth. The room itself makes an ordinary dinner feel ceremonial. Suits of armor stand watch from the walls, an imposing armored figure occupies its Gothic niche, and the enormous carved chair at the head of the table looks as though someone considerably more important than any of us should be sitting there. White napkins rose dramatically from the glasses, baskets of bread were passed around, wine appeared on the table, and soon everyone was talking at once. [Photo 1 – The château dining room and dinner table.] Then dinner arrived. Tonight’s main course was coq au vin , one of those dishes that seems particularly appropriate when you are actually eating it in France. Traditionally, coq au vin means “roost...

Bourdeilles: Two Châteaux, Eleven Bells, and Strawberries Under a Cloud of Cream

  Bourdeilles: Two Châteaux, Eleven Bells, and Strawberries Under a Cloud of Cream Today was the kind of travel day I enjoy most, not about covering great distances, but about slowing down enough to notice where I was. Our destination was Bourdeilles , a small village in the Dordogne that manages to fit a remarkable amount of history into a very walkable place. We arrived in our two vans and drove up to one of the parking areas above the village. Before anything historical or picturesque, I have to mention one very practical discovery: there was an exceptionally clean public restroom at the parking area. When you are traveling, these things matter. From there, we began making our way into Bourdeilles. A Village Made for Wandering The first impression was stone. Stone walls. Stone houses. Stone steps. Cobblestone lanes that curved between buildings that looked as though they had been standing there forever. But the stone never felt severe. Wooden shutters, some deep burgundy...